How to Fit Plantation Shutters | Fitting Guides | 247 Blinds
How to fit Plantation Shutters | 247 Guides
Fitting your new Shutter blinds can be a doddle proving the best guide. We've created a step-by-step guide below. Feel free to watch the video, or simply press the download button to grab a copy and print!
Please note, this video guide is for general use only. Though we try our best to ensure all our content is the very best, please see the rest of this fitting page for the most up-to-date information!
What comes with my blind?
Your new shutter comes with a few basic pieces:
Shutter panels in rectangular boxes.*
Frames in a separate, longer box.*
A small box of hardware needed to install.
A small bottle of touch up paint is also supplied.
Screws to put the shutter together, long for the frame, short for locking the hinges on the frame in position. Locking screw goes into the middle hole after all panel adjustments have been made.
Hinge pins, to connect the panels to the frames
A plastic Hoffman key – These can come in two size
*Where possible to avoid transit damage, we try to streamline packaging, this could mean, where the shutter is small enough, for example a 1-panel size, that you only receive the one box. Open it up and layout your pieces, and if you’re worried you’ve not received the full kit; give us a call on 01484 443790.
What do I need to fit?
You don’t need expert tools for the job, but we’d recommend the following:
Pencil to mark out your bracket placements
A star-headed screwdriver, or power drill to quicken things up.
A measuring tape to help measure up bracket placements.
The correct screws and wall plug for the surface you’ll be fitting your blind to. This could be plaster, wood or even steel, so we’d recommend looking online to ensure you get the best fittings for your shutter and surface type. If fitting to masonry, drill and use the appropriate wall plug. If fitting to uPVC, once you feel the screw start to bite, stop drilling.
Recommended Extras: Spirit level, Decorators Caulk & Packing material such as cardboard or wedges.
Carefully open the packaging and lay out the contents on the floor,
You should have all the items covered previously, including the panels, hinges and hinge packers, small drill cover stickers and screws to fit the panels together.
Please note that drill holes are not always pre-drilled into the frames, this is to allow you to fit the blinds as you require.
Assembling the frame.
1) After laying out your frame, panels and pieces, position these up to ensure everything slots into the right place. Each frame piece is labelled “top”, “bottom”, “left” and “right”. Panels also come pre-hinged.
2) Slide your frame pieces together. The end of the frames are mitred (cut at an angle to pair with another piece), designed to connect to the adjoining piece. This is the case for all, apart from 3-sided frame styles.
Check the back of your frame, a bowtie-shaped hole forms in each corner. You should use the plastic Hoffman key and tap this into the holes to connect the frames. Do not use another frame piece to tab this in, something like a rubber mallet is more suitable.
For Tier on Tier ONLY:
Tier on Tier shutters come with a T-post. These are 50mm as standard. This will come as one piece, as we do not offer this a configurable option.
You should insert this in the frame using the pre-drilled holes. Once assembled, lift the frame into position.
Note: Small single panel Shutters can arrive within a fully assembled frame. You should remove the panel and any frame cover strips in order to access the pre-drilled fixing holes in the frame.
This is where a spirit level become useful, use packing as you go along as required.
Fitting the frame.
1) Next mark the top screw holes on the right and left sides of the frame by screwing the top screws partially into the wall and then unscrewing them.
Once you have marked these two screw holes, push the frame away, drill the holes and insert your wall plug.
2) Bring back the frame, and screw the two top screws part way into the holes. This will hold the frame in place and allow you to make adjustments to the position.
3) Note that drill holes are not always pre-drilled into the frames, this is to allow you to fit the blinds as you require. Do not use all the screws, do not fully fix the frame until all the panels have been hung, as this allows any adjustments.
Place the rest of the screws into the frame, ready to mark the screw holes once the frame is in the right position.
4) Each panel is marked alphabetically in sequence, starting left to right. Ensure that they are the right way up with the label on the top edge, and the slats closing upwards.
If you opted for the traditional centre tilt rod, there is a small recess the rod sits in at the top to indicate the panel direction. If instead you’ve chosen the hidden rod option, there will always be a rebate in the top rail to accommodate the closed slat.
5) Position the 1st left panel into the frame, then secure by sliding the hinge pin in each hinge. Repeat on the other panels working your way to the right.
6) Once done, close the panels and move the shift the frame left to right until all of the panels line up together at the top. Use a spirit level to check.
7) Once you have done this, reposition the frame in place, and repack if previously done so. Once done, open the panels and mark the position of the screw holes by partially screwing in to mark the wall. Then withdraw the screws.
8) Now remove each of the hinge pins and carefully take the panels down. Release the top screws which have been holding the frame in place and carefully take the frame down.
9) Now begin to drill each of the marked screw holes. Place your wall plugs in, and bring the frame back, packing back in the same position as before. The drill holes should now all align.
10) Screw the frame securely into the wall and replace the panels as before, securing with the hinge pins. Should you need to, use the hinge packers supplied to make fine adjustments to the space between the closed panels. You can also adjust the panels position vertically.
11) Now fully secure your hinges by tightening the screws and putting the final middle locking hinge screw in. For a clean finish, place caps into the drilled holes onto the frame.
12) Using your decorators caulk, seal any gaps around the frame. You may also want to caulk the inside of the back of the frame. Afterwards, use a wet wipe to finish.
To close the vanes, push the tilt rod upwards. Then, applying light pressure, run your hand upwards from the bottom to fully close them. When closing the panels, support the weight of the leading door, lift up slightly and place back into the frame.
You may find over time that your slats lose some tension. Not to worry, this can be adjusted by using the slat tension screws, which are located on the inside edge of the panels. A quarter turn of the screw is enough to tighten the mechanism.
Fitting the magnet fastener
For shutters with two doors hinged together, it may be necessary to use the magnet receivers supplied. These will keep the open folded panels fastened together and reduce the likelihood of the doors creeping.
1) Take the screw and place through the hole in the magnet, so that the screw is facing outwards into the room. Attach these to the magnet receiver on the lead door and gently close the folding doors together.
2) Press the panel against the screw to indent the panel. This will make a mark to indicate the position of the screw hole.
3) Remove the magnet from the receiver and screw the receiver into the indent.
4) Place the panel into position, lining up the magnet and receiver.
5) Tap panel front until the magnet meets the receiver to fasten the panels.